Here’s Your Expert Guide to Oud Fragrance and How to Use It

So, What Is Oud?

Think of oud as a marinated version of perfume. Like a good wine or cheese, it takes a long time to develop naturally, and can’t just be grown and picked like any other fragrance note. Certain natural circumstances need to happen for oud to develop, as it grows within a special species of evergreen known as an aquilaria tree—primarily found in the dense forests of Southeast Asia, including India and Bangladesh. When said tree is damaged by external forces, the fragrant resin it produces to protect its core eventually turns into agarwood, or oud. From there, the essential oil is extracted by distillation from the wood or by melting the resin. 

Part of oud’s allure is found in its rich history, which predates modern perfumery by a couple thousand years. Of course, thanks to TikTok trends, there’s been more gravitation to the powerful scent in recent years. “Oud is a powerful and intoxicating scent,” Coleman tells IPSY. “It’s become very popular because of its distinct earthy smell, and how long it lasts.” On TikTok, she says she’s seen people using oud-based perfumes for “scent-maxxing,” which pretty much means layering up with as many decadent fragrances as possible. 

Modern overconsumption, however, has only increased the rarity of oud: It’s believed that for every ten aquilaria trees in the wild, only one will house the fragrant oil, and many aquilaria trees are now considered a threatened species. Because of its rarity, oud can cost up to $5,000 per pound, per Forbes. 

Still, there’s no need to stress over that price tag. Given the fragrance note’s popularity, synthetic oud has become an affordable and eco-friendly alternative, and is commonly used by Western fragrance houses. Compared to its natural counterpart, synthetic oud also keeps a perfume more stable—aka more resistant to change over time—giving your fragrance a longer shelf life. 

What Does Oud Smell Like?

Warm and earthy, oud is known for its signature woody profile. Imagine a rich, leathery scent coupled with a subtle smokey accent—similar to other aromatically intense smells like musk or amber fragrances. “Oud fragrances are great for people who don’t want something too sweet, but want something unique and bold,” says Coleman. “Its herbal smell is both edgy and opulent.” She warns that sometimes, however, oud can smell aggressively natural and damp, so she recommends spritzing some perfume onto your skin to see how it interacts with your natural chemistry. 

When blended with other essential oils, oud creates a powerful scent that emulates a sense of luxury. Some popular examples, Coleman points out, are LOUIS VUITTON’s Ombre Nomad and MAISON FRANCIS KURKDIJAN’s Oud Satin Mood. 

Why Makes Oud So Special?

A symbol of luxury, oud has a past even longer than its cultivation time. The material predates modern perfumery by a couple thousand years, and is still used across the globe for cultural and religious reasons. 

Dating back to 1400 B.C., the ingredient was originally used in herbal medicine and spiritual rituals—even appearing in the Sanskrit Vedas as a substance connoting wealth and luxury. Agarwood has also been mentioned in the Bible’s Old Testament, and Muslim prophets allegedly used its smoke to cleanse their clothes. 

Today, agarwood chips are often burned as incense at religious ceremonies across China, Japan, and India, while oud oil is often used as a token of hospitality in mosques, temples, and personal homes. Not only is the material used worldwide for religious purposes, but it’s also known for its healing purposes, including its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. As such, oud is frequently used in herbal teas and meditation rituals.

With a rich history and global cultural significance, oud is way more than just a strong scent. Centuries of cultivation, and appreciation, make the fragrant oil so special. Just by spritzing on an oud perfume, you’re completing the same ritual others might have followed thousands of years ago. 

What Does Oud Bring Out in a Fragrance?

There’s a reason oud is considered a sensual scent. The oil amplifies a person’s individual skin chemistry, enhancing their natural musk. A powerful diffusion also makes oud one of the longest-lasting ingredients on the perfume market—so if you’re looking for a scent that announces your presence when you enter a room, look no further. Even after an oud fragrance dries down on the skin, you’ll still be able to smell its earthy scent. “Oud fragrances perform extremely well,” adds Coleman. “You can spray some on and still be smelling it on your clothes for days.” 

Final Thoughts on Oud Fragrances

If you’re looking for an intense fragrance note that will have you feeling (and smelling) luxurious, oud is the way to go. Its rich scent will certainly leave an impression, and with so many synthetic options on the market, you don’t have to break the bank to get a lasting fragrance. That said, once you get your hands on an oud perfume—whether it be a vanilla musk or an earthy floral scent—the cost-per-wear will certainly be worth it.