If there’s one thing we can all agree on, it’s that zits are always inconvenient. Whether they’re painful, ugly, or they happen to pop up the morning of a major event, blemishes are always a burden. Luckily, however, minor breakouts can undergo a quick healing process, thanks to a round, sticky, thin material known as a pimple patch. That’s right, long gone are the days when we (wrongfully) turned to toothpaste. How to use pimple patches (formally known as hydrocolloid patches) properly is actually quite easy, and we’re here to explain more.
“Acne patch products are mostly small circular hydrocolloid sheets that stick to the skin,” explains dermatologist Hadley King, MD. “The hydrocolloid sheet works by absorbing excess fluid, and this pulls oil and dirt away from the pimple. These impurities are then turned into a gel-like substance that sticks to the patch. While stuck to the skin, acne patches also have the added benefit of preventing you from picking or trying to pop the pimple. This is good because picking a pimple increases inflammation and healing time, and increases risk for infection, discoloration and scarring.”
Dr. King also shares that an added bonus is that patches often include various other acne-fighting active ingredients. For example, some pimple patches contain tea tree oil or salicylic acid, like the COSRX Master Patch Intensive. Tea tree oil is commonly infused in pimple patches because of its ability to kill acne-causing bacteria and reduce inflammation. Ready to learn how to use a pimple patch the right way? Yes, there is a right and wrong way. We’re here to help!
Hadley King, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
You know the occasional hormonal blemish or something caused by a little built-up excess oil (sebum) or gunk? “Acne patches can be helpful for superficial pimples like small whiteheads or pustules,” says Dr. King.
While we’re eager to stop a zit in its tracks, a pimple patch will perform best once that zit has fully formed. “Acne patches are likely to be most helpful when applied to a superficial pimple that is coming to a head or has just come to a head,” Dr. King explains.
The great thing about the patches is they’re formulated with just the right amount of medication to zap that zit. Often, when we apply general skincare or liquid acne treatments straight from their packaging, we can overapply since there’s nothing helping us measure a correct amount. Feel free to apply as many to the face as you need—you won’t end up looking crazy in the morning (especially if you use cute pimple patches, like the STARFACE Hydro-Stars™.
“These patches offer a spot treatment option that can be helpful for mild acne,” Dr. King says. “They also generally don't dry out the skin and leave it flaky like more classic acne spot treatments containing salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. This means that they can be particularly helpful for people with sensitive skin.”
While it may seem uncomfortable to wear patches on the face for hours, it’s actually not bad at all. Pimple patches are designed with comfort in mind, as well as the idea that you’ll probably sleep in them and you won’t want them to come off. “After cleansing, apply a dot, tacky-side down, directly onto your blemish,” according to instructions on PEACE OUT SKINCARE’S site. “For best results, wear them for six hours.”
A little goes a long way…unless you have a big blemish. Be sure to use a pimple patch that covers your blemish entirely. “Cleanse the area around the problem spot,” instructs COSRX on their website. “Select a bigger size patch than the problem spot and attach the patch to the spot.” We typically turn to the FORMULA Z Iamsopretty Pimple Patches when we need greater coverage.
This should go without saying, but you want to make sure you apply face wash and then completely dry when you apply. You don’t want lingering bacteria to seep into the patch, and you don’t want dampness to make the patch slip off.
Unfortunately if you have an open sore of sorts, plopping that patch on top won’t help matters. “Don't pick and don't use a pimple patch on a pimple you have picked,” instructs Dr. Hadley. “Picking can increase inflammation and healing time and increase risk of infection, discoloration, and scarring. Picking also has a risk of introducing bacteria into the pimple, and you wouldn't want to cover an active infection with a pimple patch.”
While these pimple patches surely work wonders, they aren’t magic. They’re more of a quick fix, rather than an answer to deep-rooted problems. “Don't use a pimple patch on a deep cystic pimple because it's not going to help cystic lesions,” says Dr. Hadley. “If you’re experiencing this kind of acne, see your dermatologist, who can help with intralesional cortisone injections and prescription medications.”
Is your hormonal acne on its way? Do you feel a deep-rooted pimple potentially working its way up? Whatever the case, patching up that area with a sticker won’t do you any good. According to Dr. Hadley, you just need to let that bad boy come to the surface and do its thing before taking action.
While yes, you want to make sure your skin is freshly washed and dried pre-application, leave the affected area alone after that. From our personal experience, applying a pimple patch on top of other skincare products like lotions, sunscreen, or retinol can not only cause the patch to slip off, but it can impact the effects of the patch.
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