By the time most people hit their mid-thirties, they can pretty much guarantee a few grays will start to sprout up around the scalp. Why? Because the natural cycle of hair that is pigmented or melanated only goes through about 20 to 30 cycles (this is why people start seeing grays in their 30s or earlier). Once those cycles are finished, hair will stop producing color.
For many people, this is a time to think about what to do next. Are you going to spend the rest of your life rushing to the salon chair to cover up those grays, or does a gray-hair grow-out appeal to you? Either way, there’s no right or wrong answer to deal with grays. But if you want to know all about the gray grow-out process, we tapped hairstylist and colorist David Reid to explain exactly how to do it.
David Reid is a hairstylist, colorist, and THANK GOD IT’S NATURAL (TGIN) brand partner.
There are a number of techniques you can try to go about growing out your gray hair. Here are the top ones, according to Reid.
Reid says the first thing you should do in your “going gray” journey should be to consult a hairstylist who can help guide you on your journey and determine how much of your hair is currently gray to help you come up with a plan. “Color clients should visit a stylist with four to eight weeks of untouched growth,” he explains. “If you don’t color your hair, then visit as soon as you decide your grays need to be addressed. This allows the hairstylist to assess your percentage of gray, natural patterns, and tones to help plan the process based on length, color, and texture.”
If you want to get a jump start on going fully gray, cutting your hair (aka the big chop) can be a great way to start. “There may be suitable shorter styles that will allow you to cut out any or all pre-colored or naturally pigmented ends,” Reid explains. “But if your hair is longer, and you do not wish to lose your length, then gray blending should be considered.”
Gray blending offers a gradual transition for those who don’t mind the appearance of gray hairs showing, but just want it to look more blended in with their natural color. This technique “softens the transition and minimize the contrast between gray roots and remaining pigmented hair,” says Reid.
“The challenge to the gray transition often lies in addressing the line of demarcation,” says Reid. “This is often obvious on color-treated hair that begins to gray rapidly, leaving a harsh line between artificially colored hair and naturally pigmented and colorless grays coming in.” Your hairstylist can help address this, according to Reid, by offering…
Highlights: Adding in lighter tones in the form of highlights can help soften the contrast against gray hair.
Lowlights: Darker tones help create depth and reduce stark differences.
Combination Techniques: You could go for a mix of highlights and lowlights.
Gray hair will often become more coarse, dry, and porous since it has reduced melanin and keratin in each follicle, says Reid. To combat this, you might have to incorporate new products into your hair-care lineup.
Use a Weekly Hair Mask: Hair masks can help bring moisture back into the hair follicles and boost elasticity. Our favorite is the GOLDIE LOCKS Ultra Hydrating Signature Hair Mask that’s packed with rose water, biotin, and marula oil.
Protein Treatments: Reid recommends biotin and keratin-rich treatments to help reduce breakage and strengthen hair.
Avoid Heat-Styling: We know, we know, but seriously, just give your hot tools some time off. This can help boost hair health as well.
Specialized Shampoos: “Use purple or silver shampoos to neutralize yellow tones and maintain a cool, natural hue,” says Reid. For this, we love BLEACH LONDON’s Silver Shampoo that works on all hair types.
Diet and Supplements: “Support scalp health and hair structure with a diet rich in B vitamins, zinc, and copper,” says Reid, adding that “supplements like biotin and collagen may also help.”