What’s the Difference Between Retinol and Bakuchiol?

About the Experts: 

Dendy Engelman, MD, is a dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York City.

Krupa Koestline is a clean cosmetic chemist, ayurvedic practitioner, and founder of KKT Innovation Labs. 

What Is Retinol

“Retinol is the active form of vitamin A in the body. It is a powerful anti-aging ingredient with the ability to signal cells to behave like younger, healthier cells,” says Dr. Engelman. Think of it like turning on a switch that turns back time by revving up cell turnover, in turn exfoliating your skin, softening lines, boosting collagen and elastin, and fading discoloration and dark spots (among many more good things). To get into the scientific nitty gritty, “Retinol works by penetrating the skin and converting into retinoic acid, which binds to retinoic acid receptors (RARs) in the skin cells. This binding initiates a cascade of cellular events that regulate gene expression, leading to increased cell turnover, collagen synthesis, and the inhibition of melanin production,” says Koestline. All the more reason it’s considered top of the line when it comes to any anti-aging skincare routine.

What Are the Benefits of Retinol in Skincare?

As we age (and like fine wine, that is), the rate at which our cell’s turnover slows, which is part of the reason our skin can start to look dry, and dull making the appearance of fine lines more prominent too. One of the benefits of retinol that makes it such a unicorn skincare ingredient is its ability to help our skin regain a youthful, healthy glow. “Retinol has numerous benefits for the skin, including increasing cell turnover and collagen production, combating signs of aging, fortifying the skin barrier and helping reduce acne over time,” Dr. Engelman tells us. To add to that, with continued use of retinol products you can expect to see an improvement in skin texture and the appearance of scarring, clear, unclogged pores, smoother, brighter skin, a more even skin tone, and improved elasticity. Also, because it's so readily available in prescription skincare or over-the-counter skincare products, retinol is relatively easy to get your hands on.

What Are the Common Side Effects of Using Retinol?

Like all good things that come with a caveat, getting your skin to adjust to retinol can be a bit of a rollercoaster ride, especially if you have sensitive skin. For starters, you’ve got the retinol purge, where you can actually see an increase in breakouts all at once for a few weeks as your pores bring oil, sebum, and bacteria to the surface. The upside of this is that it doesn’t last forever, it doesn’t happen to everyone, and there’s a promise of clearer, glowy skin on the other side! To this, Dr. Engelman also adds, “Irritation, redness, dryness and flaking. These usually last about two weeks before skin adjusts to the ingredient, but some people may be too sensitive to regularly use retinol.” In the case that your skin is having a hard time adjusting, always check in with your dermatologist for advice. “Retinol also makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight, necessitating the use of sunscreen during the day to prevent damage,” adds Koestline. While wearing spf on the reg is a must, it's even more important to not skip this step when you’re using a retinol.

What Is Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is an antioxidant and retinol alternative derived from the seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia also known as the babchi plant. It has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties in addition to antioxidant properties, which makes it excellent for combating free radical damage and balancing oily, acne-prone skin,” says Dr. Engelman. What makes bakuchiol great is that it’s a natural alternative that’s great for all skin types, especially sensitive skin thanks to the way it interacts with skin. “It modulates similar pathways to those activated by retinol, particularly affecting collagen production, melanin synthesis, and antioxidant defenses. Research indicates that bakuchiol upregulates the expression of collagen types I, III, and IV, contributing to its anti-aging effects, but without retinol’s propensity to disrupt the stratum corneum, the skin’s outermost barrier layer. This makes bakuchiol a gentler option, offering similar benefits without the same level of irritation and photosensitivity typically associated with retinol,” says Koestline. In other words, because bakuchiol doesn’t affect the surface of our skin in the same way that retinol does, it doesn't have the same irritating side effects.

What Are the Benefits of Bakuchiol in Skincare?

What we love so much about bakuchiol is that it benefits our skin in so many ways that retinol does too.” It provides benefits that are similar to those of retinol, like stimulating collagen production and minimizing fine lines, wrinkles and laxity. Unlike retinol, however, bakuchiol is usually well-tolerated by most skin types, and can even be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding,” Dr. Engelman tells us. You can expect to see a decrease in hyperpigmentation and age spots, decrease in fine lines and wrinkles, a decrease in acne breakouts, an increase in hydration, and increased firmness and elasticity. Bakuchiol also acts as an anti-inflammatory, calming redness and irritation making it a great option for those who have rosacea or eczema. Pretty much all wins.

What Are the Common Side Effects of Using Bakuchiol?

Good news—there aren’t many that are deal breakers. “There is a risk of irritation and/or initial breakouts, as bakuchiol does accelerate cell turnover, but the risk is much lower with this ingredient than with retinol,” says Dr. Engelman. As with any skincare product, be sure to do a test spot before adding it to your skincare routine.

Bakuchiol vs. Retinol: Which One Should You Choose?

When it comes to bakuchiol and retinol, both are amazing at helping turn back the clock. But it turns out that there are some factors you can consider in order to help you pick the right one for you.  “When choosing between retinol and bakuchiol, consumers should consider their skin type, tolerance to potent ingredients, and lifestyle. Bakuchiol is a great choice for those with sensitive skin who prefer a gentler approach or want a product suitable for daytime use since it doesn’t cause photosensitivity like retinol. On the other hand, retinol is more suitable for those seeking well-established, long-term anti-aging benefits and who are willing to go through an adjustment period to achieve more dramatic results,’ says Koestline. There are also differences in potency. In general, retinol is stronger than bakuchiol. “Retinol is absolutely the stronger and more effective anti-aging ingredient. It is more powerful and will deliver results faster than bakuchiol. However, I often say that the most effective product or ingredient is the one you will actually use, and not everyone is able to tolerate retinol due to its harshness. For those who can’t or don’t want to use retinol (including those who are pregnant or nursing), bakuchiol is an excellent alternative that delivers effective anti-aging benefits without such a high risk of irritating the skin,” Dr. Engelmen advises.

Final Thoughts

To sum it all up, both retinol and bakuchiol are skin transforming must-haves that can help bring life back to dull-looking skin, while improving overall skin health and improving signs of aging. Whether you choose the retinol route, or want to give bakuchiol a go (terms don’t recommend doubling up on both), you really can’t go wrong. Just keep in mind your skin’s overall sensitivity, sun sensitivity, time spent adjusting to new ingredients and what you’re looking for in an overall anti-aging skincare ingredient.

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